We were briefed by Jo, I need to recover from the lanyard project but I just have to start the denim one. CSM is exhausting.
The colour palette for denim is wide but on the brief, only indigo denim is shown as example.
I haven't worn indigo denim in years (as I only wear black) and I'm thinking about wearing blue denim for the upcoming weeks to really get the feeling of the material and colour.
1) BUYING DENIM:
I went just after class to buy denim fabric to experiment (Rolls & Rems: 21 Seven Sisters Rd, London N7 6AN). I got 2m of dark blue denim and I just remembered how heavy is denim when carrying it.
2) EXPERIMENT WITH DENIM.
3) PRINT OUT 6 RESEARCH IMAGES IN COLOUR.
Dark blue denim: Rolls & Rems
1) HAND KNITTING
I can't stop sneezing while ripping denim. I might be allergic or it maybe is just the bits in the air. I don't like the look of ripped denim without being wash, so I'm washing and drying it. I had to make a very long yarn to create the sample by joining different stripes. I really like the sample; I learned to hand knit with my mum over Christmas and now I could apply it into my work.
2) FINGER KNITTING
I took the threads that I separated when ripping to finger knit.
3) MESS WITH THREADS
I just used the warp threads with PVA glue to make them stay together and hard. I really like the result as it doesn't look denim at all but it's a deconstruction and it's just made from denim.
6) NAVY STRIPES WITH BEADS
I ripped denim but not wash it this time. I sewed stripes into another piece of fabric.
then I gathered the fabric a bit as I found it plain being flat but it also looked boring for me and I wanted to use embellishment. I couldn't use regular beads as we are only allowed to use denim and I decided to make my own beads with denim.
Ripping to separate white from blue
Indigo Warp threads
Finger knitted denim warp threads
Striped denim with beads
RESEARCH RESPONSES USING BLUES
I decided to dress with a total blue denim look to get into de mood and it was useful as we were just working with blues today.
I really enjoyed today's session; Katie and Victoria create such a nice class environment.
We did different tasks from our 6 research images, blue colour experimentation and paper manipulation:
- IMAGE 1: Cut small section from the image and draw the missing information.
- I really like the continuous line drawing I did and the accent colours (blue, red and yellow) I added.
- IMAGE 2: Draw most important aspect of the image (just drawing, with a different media of image 1).
- IMAGE 3: Hide information by paint/mark making.
- I decided to hide information of the port of Genoa by using different tones of acrylic paint in a gradient way and I really like the result; it looks like the blue from the sky and the sea.
- IMAGE 4 + 5: Collage them together
- Blue colour gradation with a minimum of 8 tones adding texture. In each table we shared media.
- I quite like the pleats I created with tape, as they look like sea waves.
- In pairs: we had to describe one of our images in 3 words and the partner had to draw it. It was funny to see people's outcomes.
- I had to draw for May: Vintage, Jumpsuit and Lady
- May had to draw for me: Fisherman, Boat and Sea
- Paper manipulation painting the paper with the blue from colour gradation and denim experimentation samples.
- I did one, overlapping the mess that I did with denim.
- I did another one folding paper in the sea waves way and this is my favourite. I'm going to do this pleats with denim.
1) PUT DRAWING FROM PARTNER ON WORKFRLOW; DISCUSS HOW THEIR VISUAL INTERPRETAION OF YOUR RESEARCH DIFFERS OR RESONATES WITH YOUR OWN DESCRIPTION.
2) CONSIDER AN ALTERNATIVE VIEWPOINT.
3)Continue to translate research with observational drawing, mark making development and tactile interpretation.
4)Be prepared on Monday to work independently.
- Is your research following a personal direction?
- I see proper denim as blue. In the research, I found the sailor use of denim in Genoa and the Indigo blue interesting to work a navy menswear. Genova (Italy) and my city Valencia (Spain) have the Mediterranean Sea in common. I've seen since childhood lots of blue and white houses and interior design by the beach, where you can find lots of navy elements such as boats, ropes, anchors, fishnets...
- Write one sentence to describe your narrative at this stage:
- Navy and the Mediterranean Sea.
Italian Navy Army
Genoa Port, Italy
Blue Mix Media
TUTORIAL WITH PAULINE
- I was very confused about the writing on reflection vs the writing of research so I booked a session with Pauline. It's been very helpful. Now I'm obsessed about doing a proper Workflow.
FABRIC SHOPPING AT GOLDHAWK ROAD
I've seen so many types and colours of denim today. I've seen ones that have the same colour for self and warp I'd like to keep my experimentation with denim with blue warp and white weft.
- Light thick denim with no stretch (or very little)
- it was impossible to find it and I had to get one with a bit of stretch and no to thick. I want to find the vintage looking one.
- Stripped denim
- Unexpectedly I saw a stripped denim (blue and white) that I find quite navy, and I got a metre.
OWN DECONSTRUCTED STRIPPED DENIM
I've experimented with blue weft making a mess that I really like (deconstructed denim) but is denim just the weft part? I think denim is a combination both blue warp and white weft. I'm going to make another mess using just the white weft. After that, I'll make my own stripped denim using:
- Mess with blue warp
- Mess with white weft
Research vs Reflection
Light blue denim: FABRI X
Stripped denim: Classic Textile
- WRITE YOUR SENTENCE ONTO A PIECE OF PAPER
- MEDITERRANEAN NAVY
- IN A LARGE TABLE GROUPS, SAY YOUR SENTENCE ALOUD
- WHAT DOES THE GROUP THINK OF YOUR IDEA?
- TAKE NOTE OF PEER SUGGESTIONS
- SELF DIRECTED
- IN SKETCHBOOKS DEVELOP YOUR NARRATIVE THROUGHOUT DRAWING + SAMPLING
- IS YOUR WORKS ANSWERING YOUR SENTENCE?
I basically spent all afternoon and evening taking the white threads of a big piece of denim. I want to knot a fishesherman net afterwards. I wanted to get the white threads to make another mess but the threads are baby blue not while due to the dying.
TUTORIAL WITH VICTORIA & OONAGH:
I am so disappointed about having the tutorial today as I can only get feedback of the very little work I've curated. I've got amazing feedback anyway:
- TACTILE STRUCTURES:
- Definitely include this project.
- Include page with stitches and collage.
- Apply samples on the body.
- Too many illustration portfolio sheets (cut).
- Remove "The last supper" illustration and set the first part behind the first page of reseach.
- Apply samples into the body.
- Apply lanyard on the body in a non-functional way.
- Make clear that I take buckles from police uniform and the harness from vintage.
- Don't use a whole page of secondary research.
- DENIM PROJECT:
- Use fine line pens for drawings and avoid Poscas.
- Make a different type of illustrations.
- Make delicate and messy.
- Use the denim beads as fastening.
- Keep developing the idea of the Denim is the blue + white part.
I was thinking of sea waves and I decided to pleat fabric to get the effect. I enjoy pleating but it required lots of fabric which I find a waste of it.
PRINTING AND KNITTING
I need to do prints for this project as Fashion Print is one of the pathways I applied to. I started experimenting by painting denim with acrylics. Then, I ripped the painted denim and join the stripes to create denim yarn. I did a finger knit sample. I'm still figuring out if I prefer the knit with print or without.
Knitted and painted denim
Knit and print
Navy stripes and hitched cord
Stripped fabric with cord
Fisherman net with denim threads
pleats as sea waves
Pleats cut then ripped
Smooth vs Rough sea
I thought sailor knots were an easy thing to do but it takes time to get the know-how. I tried first by reading the instructions I found on a book in the library but it was really complicated. I ended up watching Youtube tutorials.
I made tiny knows in both white and jute cord and set them on denim:
- I tried to set different knots on different textured and ripped denim but I only like the look of the knots on plain navy denim.
- It looks like a framed nautical knots wall.
- I really like how it looks and I'm thinking that this fabric sample will look good for a men's shirt.
The most tedious know was the monkey's fist. It took me two hours to get a decent first one.
I'm happy with the result as the aesthetic of nautical knots are simple but also complicated.
NAVY ARMY EMBELLISHMENT
I'm fascinated by Goldwork and for military uniform this techniques is the preferred. I wanted to do the Goldwork look but using white cord. As fastener idea (for a jacket), I set a monkey's fist.
EYELETS AS BOAT WINDOWS
I wasn't happy with the stripped fabric with beads I did last week and I removed the denim beads. I added instead eyelets. Gold just look amazing with denim, it's navy and the eyelets look like boat's windows.
WHITE CORD IN SAILOR'S UNIFORM
My brother took his first communion dressed as sailor and I have the pictures in my mind. The uniform is simple but the neck just add everything. My neck version is a joined waved fabric with cord, ending with a sailor knot.
Marine's uniform sleeve bottom
Stripes and colour waves
Navy stripes, eyelets and cord
PAINTING WITH ACRYLICS
- My project explores the Mediterranean Sea and I wanted to paint the sea on paper before trying on denim. I was thinking about the different layers of the sea and that the colours might change from the depth to the superficial layer.
- I tried to capture the sea depth by using dark blues and the superfine with light blues adding also white to create the waves effect.
MEDIA AND TECHNIQUES:
- I spent the afternoon and evening painting with acrylics.
- I used both brushes and palette knives and I absolutely love impasto technique as it’s very easy to create texture.
- Acrylic painting is my favourite thing because time flies and I usually like the result.
- I first prepared a blue colour palette reference:
- To know afterwards what colours I was using for each painting.
- To not forget using the wide range of blues I have.
RESULT + FEEDBACK:
- I’m happy with the result. It’s abstract but you can see that is the sea.
- I asked one classmate who didn’t know about my narrative (navy) about what the paintings were suggesting and she answered: the sea
- I’ve got my favourite print (the first one I did) and I asked two of my classmates about which one they preferred. One chose my least favourite and the other a different from mine. I was quite happy with their answers as that means I’ve got variety.
Before starting de fashion development I needed to find a person to be my the model. The tutors told me to make this project delicate and use fine lines for the drawings. I needed a delicate boy and Charlie's aesthetic with his beauty face and blond hair represents a perfect delicate navy prince. He reminds me of the illustrations of my favourite book: The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
Navy Prince Charlie
Acrylics colour reference
Impasto with acrylic paint
TUTORIAL WITH PAULINE
- I need to be VERY specific.
- Go straight to the point.
- Use bullet points just as a starting point before developed writing
LATEX WITH DENIM
It's the first time I use latex and it really stinks with a really strong smell. I added blue dye to make blue latex and combined it in 3 different ways:
- with denim threads
- on ripped denim
- on pleated denim
I enjoyed the process and I am happy with the result as I am taking further previous experiments in a different way. The idea behind the latex is making denim water-proof, considering the fisherman waders and raincoats.
I got modelling paste for the first time. Watching a youtube tutorial of acrylic techniques, modelling paste is a way to add texture to acrylics. I'm really fascinated by the use of modelling paste. If acrylic was my favourite media, now, by adding texture, it's just sublime. I experimented it painting denim with knives palettes.
Latex with denim threads
Latex on ripped denim
Latex on pleated denim
Ripped denim with acrylics and modelling paste
little prints on denim
Printed pleats: white acrylic paint and modelling paste
Acrylic paint + molding paste on denim
I just draped on the mannequin several printed samples to see if they work together. Due to all of them follow the sea colour palette they really match and I like the colour combination.
I created a very simple oversized pattern. From the swatch I knew that the harness of the textile will allow me a sculptural shape and I drew a dress/long shirt for men.
It was quite tedious to transfer the pattern into plastic as I don't have weights at home, but luckily I have heavy books that I used instead
CCombined textile samples
Transferring pattern on plastic
MY OWN TECHNIQUE TO RIP DENIM FASTER
I realised that when you reach a certain part of denim ripped, it is difficult to continue ripping as the blue threads tangle with the white. The solution was to cut the white threads after a couple of them taken.
I needed to create my own textile and I knew that the first step was to draw the pattern to create the new textile over it. I drew it on plastic as glued threads are easy to pull up from plastic.
I had to deconstruct denim to latter on constructed again by gluing the denim threads with PVA. It took me 6 hours to create just the back part.
FEEDBACK FROM PATRICIA
I developed lots of textile samples and I was hard to decide with ones include on the portfolio. Thankfully Patricia chose the ones she preferred and made my life easier.
- For menswear focus on details
- Don't copy the sailor's suit collar
- The portfolio sheets should have:
- Textile sample
- Design development
DENIM DETAILS DEVELOPMENT
After the feedback, I started to develop details for garments and I was happy with the approaches as it looked interesting and innovative.
I wanted to create a deconstructed print of the sea so I took some of the sea paintings I did with acrylics and I cut them in regular and equal little pieces and combine them to create a different print.
I painted denim with acrylics and moulding paste trying to represent the colours of the sea. Then I pleated the fabric to represent the waves and interweaved stripes of pleats to create a rough sea.
Print with chains
Chains with sea print fabric
Print: the sea
The sea: pleats + print
FINISHING OFF THE GARMENT
I developed the pattern over the last weekend and also the back part of the garment but I had to make the front part and then join both parts. I really needed to finish it because on Thursday it was the time to take pictures of Charlie wearing it.
POCKET AND CUFF WITH LATEX
I prepared more samples with denim threads and latex to make cuffs and pockets to the final outcome. I din't like how the cuffs look with the garment and it was impossible to make the pocket as the latex was sticking it.
GARMENT DETAILS DEVELOPMENT
I developed a denim swath with two types of denim, inspired by the sailor suit collar. I wanted to use it not as a collar, so I tried it on the shoulder and I was glad with the look as the sailor knot made with wired cord was sticking out from the body.
Navy stripes with cord
Cuffs and pocket
Drawing front pattern
Taking the garment to Archway was a nightmare. It is extremely delicate, big, it's glued with PVA and it was raining. I had to cover it with 3 plastic bags and keep it straight when in the bus. I asked Charlie to take a couple of pictures. Of course the garment broke as it's really delicate.
It is always rewarding when tutors and classmates like your work.
I focus on development fashion approaches taking inspiration from textiles swatches. When I do fabric shopping I always change my ideas as I get inspired by the textiles. Now my own textiles are inspiring the different fashion approaches and I really enjoyed as it's more unique and innovative.
FINISHING OFF THE PORTFOLIO AND SKETCHBOOKS
I spent all day with a gut feeling in my belly. Nervousness was in my body and I was trying to put together a good portfolio.
I left for the last minute the printing and reseting on the skethbooks the stuff I took from the sketchbooks to set on the portfolio sheets. It was really time consuming as I wanted to cut it perfectly for the sketchbooks to look nice.
I was nervous and excited. Nervous because when something really matters for me I get nervous and excited because it might be the beginning of something amazing. I was happy and confident with the work I presented because I worked really hard the last months to put together my projects and portfolio.
The waiting was the worst part as it's really nerve-racking. My mates were called up one after another and I was one of the latest people to be interview. I was interview but 3 pathway leaders (Menswear, Fashion Print and Fashion knit). I was asked the following questions:
- Explain why you applied to 3 fashion pathways
- From where do you take your inspiration
- Where do you see yourself in 10 years
Right after the interview I was very happy because I could answer better and I started to worry. The pathway leaders were really nice to everyone and I prefer not to be extremely happy. I try to not compare myself to others but it's very tangible how the talent is within my mates and I guess that it isn't easy for the pathway leaders to make a decision.
PREPARING A "PLAN B"
If I get a place: I'm gonna die of happiness.
If I don't get a place: I'm gonna die of sadness.
I'm really positive but I'm also proactive and I'm preparing a plan b in case I don't get a place because I don't want an emotional suicide. I've been fighting to get a BA place at CSM and I can't see myself getting a further fashion education in any other institution, but to not get a place is a possible option.